ELECTROLYSIS a simple tutorial using simple things

"EQUIPMENT and ITEMS"

Electrolysis is a great way of getting coins back into circulation! I wouldn't recommend that you try this on ANY coin of value unless it is so far gone that you wouldn't care about it. In this first section we will see the equipment I use and the explanations why I use them. Everyone one will do something a little different to suit their needs, but if you stay in the rules, it really doesn't matter what you use! As you will see, some of the things I use and made are pretty crude, but they serve their own purpose and that is all that matters. I'll first list the items then go into specific detail in their appropriate section. Let us begin!!!

FIRST AND FOREMOST!!!

Disclaimer: I have to say this for all the "nice people" out there that might get hurt. I am only putting up these web pages and instructions for reference of how I made my Electrolysis "set". If you want to do this, PLEASE read ALL instructions before proceeding, I'd suggest that if you've never done anything like this before, print these instructions before you begin. I will not be held responsible for any wrong doings or mistakes on your part that cause injury or anything more serious to you or anything you own. Which, in the simplest of terms, absolves me from anything you do after this point! Even more simple "PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!". Isn't it a shame that in this day and age I have to put this here!!!

List of items needed:

a non-metallic container, electrical tape, stainless steel fork or spoon (that you don't want anymore), wooden spatula (or anything non-conductive to stir with), an old AC/DC power supply (DC output of 5v and 500 milliamps is great), Stainless steel alligator clips (at least 3), distilled water (if you don't have this, use warm tap water running it through a filter, not the best but will do!), Salt, Baking soda, soldering iron and solder (if you want), side cutters, and an old wire hanger.

(Please click on thumbnails for larger picture if you need to)

1. NON-METALIC CONTAINER:

I use this kind of container for several different reasons. First it is non-metalic which is a must unless you want to trip some breakers or electrocute something! This one pictured is a little bigger than needed but everything we make, and is needed, fits in it perfectly for storage. Lastly, it has a lid that I use for mixing the baking soda as you will see in the "Cleaning with Electrolysis" page , we are on our way.

 

2. STAINLESS STEEL FORK OR SPOON and ELECTRICAL TAPE:

I don't think I need a pics for these do I? lol... Stainless is the key here for the fork or spoon!!! Other metals will disintegrate when power is applied to them. The stainless will disintegrate also, but at a very slow rate, a lot of cleanings. As far as the Electrical tape, any electrical tape will do, even the dollar store one! It will just be an insulator.

 

3. WOODEN SPATULA:

I included a pic of this because I can! Plus I didn't want to waste the pic I took. The key to this one is that it is non-conductive like the container, anything that is non-conductive can be used, I just happen to use this. The reason behind this one is so you don't accidentally shock yourself when stirring in the salt or baking soda.

 

4. AC/DC POWER SUPPLY:

This is the meat of your cleaning right here. Your power converter (AC/DC power supply or power transformer) should be in the neighborhood of 4 to 15 VDC and around 500 milliamps (mA). DO NOT exceed 1000 mA or 1 A, I wouldn't go past 700 mA, amps are very dangerous, you have been warned. The one pictured is 4.5 VDC and 700 mA. All this information should be found somewhere on the power supply. Voltage really doesn't matter that much as the milliamps are the main cleaner here. The more milliamps you have, the faster your stuff will be cleaned, simple as that. Caution on this though!!! Voltage isn't the killer in electronics, Amps are, and as with every electrical appliance be EXTREMELY careful with it!

 

5. STAINLESS STEEL ALLIGATOR CLIPS:

These, like the fork and spoon, have to be stainless to prevent too much corrosion and disintegration. I recommend 3 for the following reasons. One will be used to hold the coin, one will be attached to the fork or spoon, and the last one will be attached to the old coat hanger to make a stand to hold the coin in place!

 

6. DISTILLED WATER, SALT and BAKING SODA:

No, we are not baking or making something here! These are your "active ingredients" to make everything work. Contrary to common belief, pure water DOES NOT conduct electricity, it is the impurities and minerals in the water that do. The salt or the baking soda will be the impurities that are introduced to the water thus becoming an "electrolyte". The "electrolyte", without getting into heavy engineering here, is what attracts the positive and negative ions to the coin and fork or spoon to clean any deposits or corrosion off the coin. You have two different options here. The baking soda will clean slower but leave the electrolyte cleaner so you can do more coins. The Salt will clean faster but the electrolyte will become dirty and mucky faster, thus having to change it more often, your call on this one! Distilled water is the best for this because it contains very little impurities and minerals. Tap water contains high amounts of these and, though it will clean the coins, it will also leave deposits on then and possibly turning them different colors (this is from experience, lol...).

Now that we have everything we need to start building, let's go to the next page and assemble all of this stuff!!!

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